Day 1 - 2.8. Prague-Berlin-Reykjavik

Ivo arrived first directly from Warsaw after few hours of last emails and conf calls I had pleasure to show him a local pub in our village and introduce Kofola drink. Then last shopping to buy necessary  food and equipment for our trip. Jirka arrived at 2 p.m., after a quick check with Lufthansa we had to slightly repack our backpacks in order to reach maximum weight of 23kg each. Biggest issue was food. At 3 p.m. we finally left my house, Czech and German highways were without any surprises so we reached Berlin Tegel airport shortly before 7 p.m.

Ready to go, Tegel Berlin

After baggage drop off we took steaks and biers in Red Baron restaurant. Almost 4 hour flight was really exhausting, curry wurst served as dinner also didn’t help to survive in a full airplane. Nevertheless we touched the ground in Keflavik at 0:30 a.m. After arrival we had to summon our car rent company ATAK, nobody was waiting for us. 15 minutes after call a driver finally arrived and took us to their office. It took 1 minute drive and costs 20 EUR – perhaps most expensive taxi ever. That’s service called car pick up and drop off at the airport (20 EUR each way). Obviously this was just first example how Iceland will be expensive. Anyway after another 20 minutes of paper work we were quite sure that we are first customers served by this guy, he didn’t explain anything, only asked for sign off and then finally brought the car, no explanation, no word. At least we got, what was promissed, quite a new car. Happy that we have the car we jumped into our Grand Vitara and headed to Reykjavik. Around 2 p.m. we parked in front of our Radisson 1919. Quick showers and quickly to bed.

Night drive to Reykjavik

Reading this blog please understand:

1. Each day is logged with number and date
2. At bottom of each day you can find how many kilometres we drove, detailed maps with summary you can find here
3. Some days includes videos, rest videos you can find here
4. At the end I added few articles summarizing trip and experience

Drive 55km, road 41.

Day 2 - 3.8. Golden circle

After refreshing 6 hour sleep we took descent breakfast in Radisson. Next we had to go to famous and everywhere listed discount supermarket Bonus (pink pig in logo), where all the tourists buy staff (its the cheapest one).

Bonus supermarket

Radisson SAS 1919

First day we had a single goal – to see golden triangle and find accommodation in inland. First stop was Thingvellir – the oldest parliament in the world. Whole area was very well preserved, we took very nice walk around, there were many things to see and as it was our first stop we wanted to enjoy Icelandic nature.

Thingvellir place

Next stop was Geysir and its thermal neighbourhood. Unfortunately Geysir is not any more active (due to blocked hole) so main attraction is Geysirs brother Strokkur. He injects water every 6 minutes to 15-30 meters. I cannot imagine Geysir and his 80 meters in past. Each water and steam dose was quite effective and you have big chance to get wet here (or steamed). We visited also small volcano museum there, much more money we spent for lunch here, for IKEA style lunch we spent 9000 ISK, which means 60 EUR. Yep, Iceland is expensive country.

Strokkur

Strokkur

Geysir doesnt work anymore

Last stop – Gullfoss giant waterfall. First waterfall we visited, very well accessible and again overcrowded by tourists.

Gulfoss

Gulfoss and view into second cascade 

That’s main issue of Golden circle, its close from Reykjavik, so you meet there all tourists. Mandatory program was done, now it was time to go to our accommodation destination and leave after few kilometers Road 1. Then we understood why Google calculates for 60 kilometers on grave path almost 2 hours. All F roads are very tough, covered by stones and gravels, it’s almost impossible to travel faster than 60km/h, mostly even less.

F road behind us

F road and infront of us

Wasteland around F road

Change wheel is not that funny here

Vibration and shakes which car has to take are very intensive. Normal (2 wheel drive) cars are not allowed to access F roads, and it’s clear why, not speaking about wading. During our first day we saw what F road can do with your car, we saw and helped with one tire defect (try to exchange on your own big wheel on JeepJ) and saw one more issue with car axis. First day we also faced our first micro wading, but for us it was first sign of adventure, so we really enjoyed it. Finally at 8 p.m. we reached Hveravellir camp. And let me say that this was without questions the worst accommodation we had in Iceland. Thehut we had was old, stinky, the kitchen was even worst and almost no space for anything. 1 hour later arrived 20 Italians and situation was even spicier. Not speaking that for the whole camp and the hut there is only one men toilet and a shower. Anyway we though this is normal in Iceland (but it’s not) and accept everything as interesting change against previous night in 5 star Radisson.

Hveravellir hut where we spent our night, pool is on the left side

The only benefit of this place is a thermal pool, just behind the hut. But you have to get there, what is little bit complicated when the camp is full of people and of course everybody wants to be in. Ivo nominated himself to Chef role and prepared quite windy dinner – Heinz beans with sausages and lens soup. Around 10 p.m. we also dived into pool, its was relaxing, water temperature is managed by two tubes – hot one and cold one, so it’s up to you if you want to boil yourself or cool down. We faced one more funny issue, one of Italians somehow liked us more than his pals and he chased us during our whole stay. There was no place to hide or escape. So greetings to one-hand barman from Rome. Last but not least let’s mention snoring competition among Ivo and one old guy in the hut. Ivo won.

Our chef Ivo and the soup

Local thermal pool with Ivo and Jirka

Driving 210km, roads 36, 37, 35 and F35

Day 3 - 4.8. Going to North – Myvatn

It wasn’t hard to wake up early thanks to the Italians on ground floor. It needed little bit of assertiveness to conquer the kitchen and prepare morning tea. After breakfast we shortly explored neighborhood of camp.


Here you can see the tubes with hot and cold water leading to pool

Path going from the camp around the thermal area, nice walk for 1 hour

Old hut close to camp

Then we quickly packed ourselves and jumped into the car. Through the F35 road we headed to North again. Landscape changed little bit of „Mars“  was exchanged for little bit more green and grassy hills.

Green Iceland

First target of the day was Glaumbær – old buildings made from turfs, used now as museum.

View to whole historic area

Inside the turf house

Front side

Touristic center

By surprise we even received Czech brochure. All buildings are well preserved and give good overview how life was in past here. From here we went back to Road 1 and visited second largest city in Iceland – Akureyri. We came to the town during some festival so we had chance to see live music, street food and of course center itself – the dominant church, pedestrian zone and very small harbor. We took lunch in recommended Bautinn restaurant and as most tourists we tasted whale meat. It was ok; definitely different than anything else, we agreed that’s its something between steak, livers and wild. After meat stuff we took sweet bomb in Cafe Paris.

Some local heroes in Akureyri and me

Whale meat at Bautinn

Cafe Paris

Our sweet end at Cafe Paris

Next stop Godafoss – waterfall of gods. Again little bit different waterfall in horseshoe shape. We took longer path from gas station and it was really worth it. One hour later we reached our final destination for this day Myvatn Lake.

Godafoss

Myvatn lake

Already first stop justified the name – Lake of mosquitoes, they were everywhere, not biting but quite annoying. Our camp was beneath the small local airport, in front of lava field, as MasterCard says priceless view. We booked in advance a small cottage for 5 people and after first experience from Hveravellir was like Hilton for us.

Our hut for tonight

View to our hut (the one in the middle) photo from lava field

Hverfjall volcano

View from Hverfjall volcano to Dimmuborgir (we will go there tomorow)

We were allowed to use even luxury kitchen in guest house (pasta dinner), what we could have asked for more. Before we went sleep we made two small trips: first climbing on Hverfjall volcano, second natural thermal spa in Jardbodin. Both amazing, Hverfjall was our first volcano, we got here great overview above Myvatn area. It was also nice exercise and preparation for next daysJ. Jardbodin was also nice but price was little bit rubbish – 2800ISK per person.

Jardbodin baths

Driving 334km, road F35, ring 1, road 848

Day 4 - 5.8. Day of whale

August 5th was a busy day. There was time only for quick breakfast in our camp, then we spent about an hour in Dimmuborgir by walking between unbelievable lava shapes.

Dimmuborgir

Dimmuborgir

It reminded me some kind of prehistoric mountains miniatures. Then we had to go already to Husavik to meet whales. Booking in advance worked and our boat from North Sailing for 12 p.m. was available. As usual we took express lunch in harbor snack and quickly on the boat. Weather so nice in Iceland shortly changed and after few minutes on the sea there was only fog. Nevertheless we had luck and saw white beaked dolphins and humpback whale several times. I can only confirm that it pays off to take all clothes on boat, you will need them (including gloves, mask, cap etc.). After 3 hours we were frozen to ice and back in harbor.

Our boat Nattfari

Our host

Jellyfish

Dolphin under the keel

Humpback whale

Humpback whale

When everybody moves on left side boat lose the balance easily

It was realy cold, hot tea was priceless

Next hour we dedicated to Whale museum, which is located in former whale slaughter house (quite ironic), have to say super exhibition not only about whales but also how important it is to save them – if still possible.

Whale museum from outside

Whale museum from inside

The second museum we were looking for was Penises museum, yes you heard correctly in Iceland they have it. You can see all penises from different animals, but our two years old guide lied to us, museum was moved to Reykjavik. Thus no penis - no museum. After Husavik and whales we continued to Krafla area, still very active area where you can find geothermal power plant, volcano with beautiful blue Viti lake and a pedestrian path around boiling mudpoints and through smoking rocks. Of course everything surrounded by never ending lava field. That’s something what you get used to it, lava fields everywhere.

Viti lake at Krafla

Geothermal powerplant at Krafla area

Neverending lava fields at Krafla

Boiling mudpoints at Krafla

Guys took hot dog at a small kiosk on parking slot here, it was quite funny because the guy just finished toilet cleaning, hotdog felt him down on ground and generally hygiene was little bit discutable. Anyway both guys survived. Have to mention that in Iceland you can buy (and eat) chocolate bar named Lava, good name indeed. Our last stop for today was waterfall triangle Detifoss, Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss. But first we saw how to not drive on F road, see attached picture. Its dangerous to underestimate driving here. Waterfalls as usual breathtaking, Dettifoss with its giant power and Selfoss with the length.

Shortly before we get to waterfalls we met horses on the road, beutifull

Dettifoss



Selfoss

Hafragilsfoss

Dont underestimate driving here

Now we have to take decision where to sleep, there was no reservation for this day, originally we decided to sleep in Grimsstadir camp I or camp II (under tent), but on the way back from Myvatn (we had to go back to take fuel before the next day) we made much better decision, lets continue further to Askja and sleep under Queen of Mountains alias Herdubreid. It was „only 60 kilometers “.  After 1 hour of driving we found out that these 60 kilometers will be long ones, terrain was real off road. Still best should come – first serious wade. At midnight, with no light, Ivo took decision to be a hero and went to investigate how deep the water was. Luckily wade was shallow and we could continue.

How romantic, if you dont need on the other side

Guide how to wade

and quite motivating sign. Close to this wade was parked digger, we were sure that mainly because tourists and their cars in river.

There were next few rivers we had to cross and once we had to wade along the river. Absolutely destroyed at 1 a.m. we reached our camp site Herðubreiðarlindir. There is no better chance to build tent for first time then in the middle of the night under car lights. But we made it, not 100%, but good enough for sleeping. Ivo took car as a shelter.

Our appartment

 Driving 366km, roads 1, 87, 85, 87, 1, road to Krafla, 864, 1, F88